Clover Center Granny Square – Option for Step 4 of CAL

This square can be used in Step 4 of your MysterySquare2014 CAL!

Alright! Now is a pattern for a granny square that you can use to go around your center piece. You will see that after several rounds, the square instructions split into our “Celtic Lace Joiners” and our “Flat Braid Joiners.” Remember, either way, you are joining these squares onto the blanket perimeter with Flat Braid Join.

Clover Center Granny Square

Chain 3 and join to form a ring.

Into Ring: (SC, chain 4) 3 times, SC, chain 2, DC in first SC. This acts as your fourth loop, but puts you in the center, this way you can end up in the corner.

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Rnd 2: (SC in place, chain 2) counts as a TR, DC, HDC, SC all in same chain loop. In next 3 loops, (SC, HDC, DC, TR, DC, HDC, SC), SC, HDC, DC all in first half of beginning chain loop to finish that “petal” and join to top of first TR.

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Rnd 3: (SC, chain 3, SC) all in joining stitch. **(Chain 3, SC in HDC) 2 times, Chain 3, (SC, chain 3, SC) in corner TR stitch. Repeat from ** 3 times, joining in beginning SC.

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Rnd 4: Slip stitch in first corner space, SC, chain 4 (counts as first DC and chain 3), 2 DC in same corner space, **(chain 1, DC in next chain space) 3 times, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) in corner space. Repeat from ** 3 times around, stopping in beginning corner to add an additional DC to complete the corner. Join in top of beginning DC. (You can plainly see in my photo below that I forgot to add my additional DC! So my top right corner is incomplete! I fixed it by adding in an extra DC later on hehe)

Rnd 5: 3 SC in corner space, and SC in all stitches and chain spaces around, making sure to put 3 SC in all corners. Join to beginning SC.

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Rnd 6: Slip stitch in 1 SC so that you are able to work into the corner stitch. In corner stitch, (SC, chain 2) counts as TR stitch. In same stitch, 2 DC. DC in all stitches around, working (2 DC, TR, 2 DC) in all corners. Work 2 DC in your beginning corner to complete it. Join to top of first TR.

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Rnd 7: In joining stitch, (SC, chain 4) counts as (DC, chain 3). 2 DC in same stitch. **(Chain 1, skip 1 stitch, DC in next stitch) 8 times, chain 1, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) in corner stitch. Repeat from ** around until you are at the beginning corner. DC in first corner to complete it. Join in top of first DC.

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Rnd 8: 3 SC in corner space, SC in all stitches and chain spaces around, making sure to put 3 SC in corners. Join to beginning SC.

Rnd 9: Slip stich in 1 SC so you are able to work into the corner stitch. In corner stitch, (SC, chain 4) counts as (DC, chain 3). DC in same stitch. DC in all stitches around, making sure to put (DC, chain 3, DC) in corners. Join in beginning DC.

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Here is where you will work a different round depending on the way you joined in Step 3!

If you worked Celtic Lace Join, work as follows:

Rnd 10: (SC, chain 4, 3 DC) in same corner, skip 1 stitch, **(DC, chain 3, DC) in next stitch, skip 2 stitches – repeat from ** across to make 8 “v stitches”. (3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC) in corner. Repeat around to beginning, and 2 DC in beginning corner to complete it. Join in top of first DC.

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Joining Round

Rnd 11: (SC, Chain 3, SC) in first corner space, Chain 3 and SC in center DC of 3 DC group, (chain 3, SC in chain 3 loop) 4 times, Chain 3, SC in between V stitches, (chain 3, SC in next chain 3 loop) 4 times, chain 3, SC in center DC of 3 DC group, chain 3, (SC, chain 1, work flat braid join in center loop of completed blanket as you can see in the top right corner of the granny square below, chain 1, SC in same corner space. Working your SC stitches and chain loops exactly as your first side, flat braid join as in the photo below. Work remaining 2 sides and join in beginning SC. Finish off.

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If you are used Flat Braid Join on Step 3, then use the instructions below.

Rnd 10: In first corner space, (SC, chain 3, SC), ** (Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, SC) 8 times, chain 3, SC in corner space, (SC, chain 1, flat braid join this corner with the chain loop that you marked with a hook or a finger before on your completed center piece, Chain 1, SC in same corner space). Working flat braid join, join across this side. Work remaining 2 sides and join in beginning SC.

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Once you have your first square attached on one side, you can use Flat Braid Join to add in all of the squares around, joining 2 sides where needed. All corners will be immediately joined instead of leaving some corners unworked like in the FBJ tutorial on Step 3 of this CAL.

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Featured CAL Artists

Take a look at these fantastic stacks of lush Victorian Lattice Squares and partial squares. I am so proud of everyone who is working along with us! This square is utterly captivating and seeing everyone’s interpretation of the design is what truly makes this project come to life for me.

Go on and browse through the #MysterySquare2014 tag (now over 300 posts!) and you’ll see there is so much more than what is simply featured in this post. Just precious work – pure happiness!

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Shreescrochet – These colors are giving me life!

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Angelala242 – Lovely mix of color! I’m feeling Autumn in the air!

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creativemau – Getting funky with the palette – I’m with it!

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Monicacrochets – The most adorable stack of VLS I’ve ever seen 🙂

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giabets – The first of her VLS CAL pics – loving the blues

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giabets – And another beauty! This palette is amazing.

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bvchrochet – how gorgeous is this mix? The sandy neutral granny squares is genius!

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aureliaslittleroom – This makes me want to walk in the grass and soak up the sun!

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deafmutesew – pretty pastels rule! The touch of color on the edge is so beautiful.

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anniedesigncrochet -Another wooden deck that has me nudging my husband’s arm.. Beautiful and just the right place to crochet these beauties!

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larissakatherine_ – Blown away by this monochrome beauty – can’t wait to see it completed!

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larissazini – And this fabulous combo – I’m feeling this retro vibe! Gives the square a whole new look.

Step 3 of our CAL: Time to Join! (Part 1)

Welcome back to the MysterySquare2014 CAL!

Now it’s time to join our squares. And it’s a Choose Your Own Adventure 🙂 (Remember those books??) Today, I will go over the first option for joining: the Flat Braid Join. In Part 2 of this installment, I’ll demonstrate the other two joining options: Celtic Lace Join and Continuous Flat Braid Join.

Here is a photo of the Flat Braid Join. If you love it, then follow along with me today! If you love it, and you’re also feeling adventurous, then wait for the Continuous version of this join, which I’ll show tomorrow.

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And here is an example of the Celtic Lace join I’ll show tomorrow – of course if you’re following along with me, you’ll have motifs oriented diagonally. Choose your join wisely… just kidding! Go wild!!

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Made by Instagram user Butterfly26964

Okay, so here we go.

Flat Braid Join

I think everyone has their squares and partial squares all arranged? Here is a drawn diagram with the placement and numbers labelling the joining order.

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Round 1 (SC round): Attach joining yarn with a slip stitch in any corner. 3SC in same corner loop, SC through back loop only around in all stitches, putting 3SC in each corner loop. Join in first SC. Note: When I work through back loop only, I also pick up the horizontal bar that lies behind the stitch, for added support. It looks identical, but it’s much stronger.

Also, polvorones (sugar-coated shortbread cookies) help immensely with the joining process 🙂

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 Round 2 – first motif only (Chain loop round): SC in same stitch as join. **Chain 5 (corner chain), skip 1 stitch, SC in next stitch. (Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, SC in next stitch) 5 times, Chain 3, skip 1 stitch, SC in next stitch, (Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, SC in next stitch) 5 times, repeat from ** 3 times. Join in beginning SC. Finish off.
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Close-up of the side
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Motif #1 complete!
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Motif #2: Work round 1 as before.

Work one side of round 2 as before, up through 2 chains of the 5-chain corner. Line up your motifs as below, keeping in mind the placement in the diagram above.
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Here is how your make the joins in your Flat Braid Join. I’ll call this maneuver “FBJ” from now on:  Take off the loop from your hook, insert your hook in the opposing chain loop from the completed motif, and put the loop back on your hook.

In the photo below, I have done all 3 steps described above. (Release loop, insert hook, re-place loop.)
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Now, pull that loop through and complete your chain “around” the completed chain loop.
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Complete the corner chain by making 2 more chains, skip 1 stitch, and SC in the  next stitch just like Motif #1.
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Keep going around Motif #2, finishing Round 2 as before.
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Motif #3: Work same as Motif #2

Motif #4: Work round 1 as normal, and work round 2 up through the first side, plus, complete the second 5-chain corner, SC, and chain 1. FBJ in the first chain-3 loop just like in the photo below. Make 1 more chain to complete the chain-3 loop.

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Work across, making your chain-3 loops, stopping to FBJ in each loop as below. When you get to the top corner, make the 5-chain loop, but leave it un-joined for now.

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Work side 3 of Motif #4 as below, and work the fourth chain-5 corner, leaving it un-joined (see below). Work final side as normal.

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Motif #5: Join just like Motif #4, but when you work the second 5-chain corner loop, FBJ the 3rd chain of the loop to the 4th corner of Motif #4. Leave the 1st corner of motif #2 un-joined. Work side 3 of this motif, joining it to Motif #3.

All subsequent motifs (#6 – #13) will be worked in this manner. Some join to only 1 side, some join to 2 sides. Leave corner loops un-joined until the diagonal corner loop comes along to FBJ. Make sure to keep the vertical joined loops on top when you pick up diagonal loops.

Join in Half-Motifs

First half-motif

Row 1: With right side facing up, attach joining yarn with a slip stitch in the first 3-chain corner. 3 SC in same corner loop. SC through back loop only as before, putting 3 SC in next 2 corners. Turn work. Flip entire blanket over, as you will be joining these motifs with the wrong side showing.(See below)

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Row 2: SC in first stitch, chain 5, skip 1 stitch, SC in next stitch, chain 1, FBJ in corresponding loop, chain 1, skip 2 stitches as normal, SC in next stitch. Continue down side 1, SC and chain 2 for corner loop.

Look at the photo below. I am pulling up the free diagonal loop from under the horizontally joined loops. This is because when I flip the piece back over, the vertical loops are on top.

FBJ in this loop as below, chain 2, skip 1 stitch, SC in next stitch to complete corner.

Work side 2 of motif.

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Here is the half-motif all joined in. take note of which corner loops are joined, and which aren’t.

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Close-Up

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Join in Quarter-Motifs

First Quarter-motif

Work Row 1: Join yarn in first corner with right side facing. Work 3 SC in same corner, SC through back loop only across, 3SC in final corner. Turn work.

Flip the whole piece over as before.

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Row 2: Work across, making FBJ to connect all the chain-3 loops.

When you approach the second corner, SC, chain 2.

Now you should be looking at something like the photo below.

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It’s a little hard to tell in the photo, but what I’ve done is, using my fingers, pull  the right side loop through the center loop. In the photo below, you can see it done.

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Now, FBJ into that loop you pulled through, chain 2, SC in to final stitch. Corner complete.

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Now, I have flipped the piece back over and situated the corner join so that it is centered correctly. You can see below that the center loop crosses around the horizontally-joined corners.

This is how you will join the corners on all remaining half- and quarter-motifs around the perimeter. Once you have all partial motifs joined in, there will be no un-joined corner loops.

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Take great care to make sure your corner loops are joined correctly, with the vertically-join corners lying on top.

More pics tomorrow!

To read more about the Flat Braid Join, see this tutorial!

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Heart Mandala: Half-Square Pattern

 

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Heart Mandala: Half-Square Pattern

See the end of this post for related links!

Special Stitches (American terms)

DC Cluster:  In the same stitch, work 2 DC stitches up to the final step, leaving behind a loop each time. YO and draw yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

TR Cluster: In the same stitch, work 3 TR stitches up to the final step, leaving behind a loop each time. YO and draw yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

Pattern

Ch-3, join to make a Ring

Row 1: 4 SC in Ring, cut yarn and finish off.

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Row 2: Join new color in first SC with Row 1 facing up. (SC, Ch-2, DC Cluster) in same stitch. (Ch-3, DC Cluster) 3 times, Ch-2, DC in same stitch as final DC cluster, cut yarn and finish off.

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Row 3: Join new color in first chain of beginning Ch-2. (SC, Ch-4) in same stitch, (TR Cluster, Ch-3) in first chain space. (TR Cluster, Ch-2, TR Cluster, Ch-3) in next chain space 3 times, TR Cluster in final chain space, Ch-2, TR in final DC of Row 2, cut yarn and finish off. TURN WORK.

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Row 4: Join new yarn in second chain of Ch-4 space of Row below. (SC, Ch-1) in same stitch, 2 DC in first chain space, (Ch-2, SC in next chain space, Ch-2, 5 DC in next chain space) 3 times, Ch-2, SC in next chain space, Ch-2, 2 DC in final chain space, DC in final stitch. Turn work.

Row 5: SC in first stitch, Ch-1, DC in next 3 stitches, (Ch-2, 2 DC in next DC, DC in next 3 DC, 2 DC in next DC) 3 times, Ch-2, DC in next 3 DC, DC in final stitch. Turn work.

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Row 6: SC in first stitch, Ch-1, DC in next 4 stitches, (Ch-2, 2 DC in next DC, DC in next 5 DC, 2 DC in next DC) 3 times, Ch-2, DC in next 4 stitches, DC in final stitch. Turn work.

Row 7: SC in first stitch, skip 1 stitch, 7 DC in next stitch, (SC in Ch-2 space, skip 2 stitches, 7 DC in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, SC in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, 7 DC in next stitch) 3 times, SC in Ch-2 space, skip 2 stitches, 7 DC in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, SC in final stitch. Finish off.

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 Square Off

DTR stitch: Wrap yarn around hook 3 times. YO and pull through 2 loops on hook until all loops are used (4 times total).

2DCdec: Make a DC cluster, but instead of working both “legs” in the same stitch, work them in the two stitches indicated.

2SCdec: Decrease the 2 indicated stitches together by working (insert hook in first stitch, YO, draw up a loop, insert hook in second stitch, YO draw up a loop, YO, draw yarn through all 3 loops on hook.)

Pattern

With right side facing up, attach background color in first SC. Ch-5,  3 DTR in same stitch, skip 2 stitches, ***TR in next stitch, DC in next 3 stitches, 2DCdec over last stitch of this shell and first stitch of next shell. DC in next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches, 2SCdec over last stitch of this shell and first stitch of next shell, SC in next 4 stitches, DC, 2DCdec as before, DC in next 3 stitches, TR, (3 DTR, Ch-3, 3 DTR) in next SC, repeat from *** to final SC. 3 DTR, Ch-2, DTR in final SC. Cut yarn and finish off.

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With right side facing, attach same back background yarn in the first chain space, 3 SC in same chain space, SC in all stitches around, putting 5 SC in corner chain space, ending with 3 SC in final chain space. Finish off and smile! 🙂

Check out the original motif by the talented Crochet_Millan!

See the post where I square off the original mandala pattern.

And the Quarter-Square Motif, too!

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CAL Step 2: Victorian Lattice Quarter-Square Pattern

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Victorian Lattice: Quarter-Square (Make 4)

Update! I have changed these patterns to reflect the language of the original Victorian Lattice Square pattern! I have also addressed the issue regarding the trouble with shaping the partial pieces that some folks are having. I did not change my photographs, so the photos still reflect my original instructions. We are working on having the partials translated into chart form, so that should help!

Ch-3, join with slip stitch to make a ring.

Row 1: All in Ring: SC, Ch-1, (DC, Ch-1) 3 times, DC all in Ring, turn work. 5 DC. (Wrong Side)

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Row 2: (SC, Ch-1, DC) in first chain space. Ch-2, (DC2TOG in next chain space, Ch-2) 2 times, DC2TOG in final chain space, turn work.

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Row 3: SC in first DC. Ch-6, SC in first chain space. (Ch-3, SC in next chain space) 2 times, Chain 3, TR in final chain of row below, turn work.

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Row 4: SC in top of TR, Ch-3, 5 DC in Ch-3 space, SC in next chain space, Ch-4, SC in next chain space, 5 DC,  Ch-2, DC in second chain from beg SC of row below, turn work.

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Row 5: SC in top of first DC, Ch-3, 2 DC in chain space, DC in next 4 stitches, skip 1 DC, Ch-4, SC in chain space, Ch-4, skip 1 DC, DC in next 4 stitches, 2 DC in final chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain from beg SC of row below, turn work.

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Row 6: SC in top of first DC, Ch-3, 2 DC in chain space, DC in next 4 stitches, skip 2 DC, (Ch-4, SC in next chain space) 2 times, Ch-4, skip 2 DC, DC in next 4 stitches, 2 DC in final chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain from Beg SC of row below, turn work.

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Row 7: SC in first DC, Ch-2, 2 DC in chain space, DC in next 6 stitches, 2 DC in next chain space, Ch-4, SC in next chain space, Ch-4, 2 DC in next chain space, DC in next 6 stitches, 2 DC in final chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain above beg SC on row below, turn work.

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Row 8: SC in first DC, Ch-3, 2 DC in first chain space, DC in next 10 stitches, 2 DC in next chain space, Ch-1, 2 DC in next chain space, DC in next 10 stitches, 2 DC in final chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain before beg SC in row below, turn work.

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Row 9: SC Ch-3, SC in first DC, SC in all stitches across (including Ch-1), end with (SC, Ch-3, SC) in final chain space.. Finish off! 🙂

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Alternate finishing for Row 9 to make a more professional join:

Cut yarn after Row 8. Re-join yarn with Row 8 facing up. Work Row 9 and finish off. Both Row 8 and 9 will be on the right side, for a nicer look when joining.

CAL Step 2: Victorian Lattice Half-Square Pattern

 

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Victorian Lattice: Half-Square

Update! I have changed these patterns to reflect the language of the original Victorian Lattice Square pattern! I have also addressed the issue regarding the trouble with shaping the partial pieces that some folks are having. I did not change my photographs, so the photos still reflect my original instructions. We are working on having the partials translated into chart form, so that should help!

Ch-3 and join with Slip Stitch to make a Ring.

Row 1: All in ring: SC, Ch-3, (DC, Ch-1) 6 times, DC, turn work. 8 DC (Wrong Side)

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Row 2: (SC, Ch-1, DC) in first chain space. Ch-2, (DC2TOG in next chain space, Ch-2) 5 times, DC2TOG in final chain space, turn work.

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Row 3: SC in first DC. Ch-6, SC in first chain space. (Ch-3, SC in next chain space) 2 times, Ch-7, SC in next chain space, (Ch-3, SC in next chain space) 2 times, Chain 3, TR in final chain of row below, turn work.

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Row 4: SC in top of TR, Ch-3, 5 DC in Ch-3 space, SC in next chain space, Ch-4, SC in next chain space, 5 DC, Ch-3, 5 DC all in Ch-7 space, SC in next chain space, Ch-4, SC in next chain space, 5 DC in next chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain from beg SC of row below, turn work.

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Row 5: SC in top of first DC, Ch-3, 2 DC in chain space, DC in next 4 stitches, skip 1 DC, Ch-4, SC in chain space, Ch-4, skip 1 DC, DC in next 4 stitches, (2 DC, Ch-3, 2 DC) in Ch-3 space, DC in next 4 stitches, skip 1 DC, Ch-3, SC in next chain space, Ch-3, DC in next 4 stitches, 2 DC in final chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain from beg SC of row below, turn work.

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Row 6: SC in top of first DC, Ch-3, 2 DC in chain space, DC in next 4 stitches, skip 2 DC, (Ch-4, SC in next chain space) 2 times, Ch-4, skip 2 DC, DC in next 4 stitches, (2 DC, Ch-3, 2 DC) in Ch-1 space, DC in next 4 stitches, skip 2 DC, (Ch-4, SC in next chain space) 2 times, Ch-4, skip 2 DC, DC in next 4 stitches, 2 DC in final chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain from Beg SC of row below, turn work.

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Row 7: SC in first DC, Ch-2, 2 DC in chain space, DC in next 6 stitches, 2 DC in next chain space, Ch-4, SC in next chain space, Ch-4, 2 DC in next chain space, DC in next 6 stitches, (2 DC, Ch-3, 2 DC) in next Ch-1 space, DC in next 6 stitches, 2 DC in next chain space, Ch-4, SC in next chain space, Ch-4, 2 DC in next chain space, DC in next 6 stitches, 2 DC in final chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain above beg SC on row below, turn work.

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Row 8: SC in first DC, Ch-3, 2 DC in first chain space, DC in next 10 stitches, 2 DC in next chain space, Ch-1, 2 DC in next chain space, DC in next 10 stitches, (2 DC, Ch-3, 2 DC) in chain space, DC in next 10 chain stitches, 2 DC in next chain space, Ch-1, 2 DC in next chain space DC in next 10 stitches, 2 DC in final chain space, Ch-2, DC in second chain before beg SC in row below, turn work.

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Row 9: SC Ch-3, SC in first DC, SC in all stitches across (including Ch-1), putting (SC, Ch-3, SC) in next 2 corners. Finish off.

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Another way to finish the final row is to cut after Row 8, join yarn with Row 8 facing up as the Right Side, and work Row 9. This gives a much more finished look although it adds 2 ends to sew in.

 

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How many Half-Squares do I make??

Your 13 squares, if you are following my pattern, will be arranged in a formation as in the photo below. My 13 squares are in laboratory experimentation mode for joining class on Sept 1, so I used some granny squares that I had around!

If you’re following my pattern, you have to make 8 half-squares, 2 for each side, as you can see from the half-triangle spaces below. Make as many as you need to fill your blanket spaces!

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Beautiful Makes: Victorian Lattice Square

Some stunning inspiration for your Victorian Lattice Squares! You’ll be starting a new project in no time – don’t we all need another WIP?  😉

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bvcrochet – check out the perfect solid granny square pairing!

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knottyhookercrochet – wowie! wonderful blanket in the works

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diephotographin – crisp and clean in these gorgeous colors

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joycelovescrochet – look at the beautiful border! chart is on her instagram

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sherlock1372 – blue check is a bold and lush showcase for this design!

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sibelliya – amazing cushion in stunning grey and mint

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butterfly26964 – simply exquisite pastel and white baby blanket (uses “Celtic Lace Join” free tutorial at CypressTextiles.net)